Though it is already one week ago now that I returned from Taipeh, I still am not finished writing about it... There are so many impressions I would like to share with you, but words are hard to find at times, especially when I am distracted by all the other work I am doing here on the farm, most of it also revolving around developing concise English formulations for our webpage, writing other entries on other blogs, answering customer requests and last but not least even quite an amount of Chinese-English-translation works (I have to say I really like the latter part, as I feel it helps improving my language skills a lot).
So back to the initial topic: Taipeh.
Now I will describe, what in my eyes was the best part of my trip: Jiufen. Technically speaking, Jiufen is far from being part of Taipeh itself, but it is only some forty minutes away by car and easily accessible from Taipeh.
What is so special about it and why did I like it the most? Well, that is hard to describe again, but I think you will understand looking at the photograph below. I am under the impression that, and the impression grew stronger during the last days, my camera is experiencing some problems taking clear shots and that I should have bought a new and much better one to do justice to all the spectacular scenes I have already come around here.
Despite that and the following shot being nothing but a mere attempt to capture the breathtaking panorama, I still believe that you will be able to feel the mystical beauty that indwells the picture.
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| View from Jiufen on the north Taiwan coastline and mountain ridge |
Jiufen's name derives from the Chinese words for "nine portions". That is, because in the early times of the village there were nine families living in Jiufen and every time a shipment of supplies arrived at the coast, they would ask for nine portions to be carried up the mountain.
The village developed rapidly after the discovery of great gold deposits in 1893 and during the subsequent goldrush, mining being especially pushed by the Japanese during their rule on Taiwan from 1895 to 1945.
Following the stop of mining activities, the town experienced a decline just as drastic as its rise. Only in the 1990s was Jiufen rediscovered for its scenic view and many cultural sights, especially the many remnants of Japanese influence. Today, Jiufen is a major tourist attraction drawing thousands of visitors every week.
The main alley, like a snake endlessly winding up and down the hillside through most parts of the town, is crowded with people strolling along the lanes of busily working small shops offering foods such as local specialties, traditional Chinese snacks, but also Japanese cuisine, and regional handicrafts, souvenirs and items of everyday use.
We spent almost two hours just walking down and up again this alley, stopping every now and then to try various snacks and delicacies.
Being a vegetarian makes me feel very good and I do not think that I am lacking any nutrients. Actually, after almost five months of sticking to a strictly vegetarian diet, I have even developed an aversion to the smell of meat and the idea of eating it.
Nevertheless, I sometimes feel it is a pity that I am missing the chance to try the many local dishes. If not for myself, then at least because I cannot tell you about the taste of chicken feet, pig's snout and blood cake.
When we left Jiufen, it was already dark and we were heading for Pingxi, a town more inland and famous for the releasing of heavenly lanterns at night. But things went quite different from what we had planned. The ride through the mountains turned out to be the most exciting part of the day and it is probably the most thrilling journey by car so far in my life.
I am already used to the very curvy and narrow streets in the Taiwanese mountains, either cutting through the uninhabited mountains or fitted onto steep hillsides. Yet, this ride was certainly far more terrific, as low clouds enshrouded the hilltops, forming a thick wall of fog around us and reducing our vision to less than 2 metres. So we made our way through the unknown going at walking speed around 180° bends, up and down sudden 10%-gradients, until we finally made it to Pingxi.
By that time, it had started raining cats and dogs. Thus, we decided to drop the flying of heavenly lanterns and returned to Taipeh, which is kind of sad, but I guess, after a ride like that it would have been hard to impress me anyways, haha.
On monday, my friend took me to the language division of the National Taiwan University (NTU), a visit I had in fact been awaiting anxiously, since the information I wanted to get here about regular Chinese courses offered by the NTU would be decisive for my home university to permit or forbid my exchange to Taiwan next year. Luckily, all of the conditions set by my home university are fulfilled and I gained the permit to apply for a course with NTU. Taiwan I am coming back! :)
The last step on my trip to Taipeh was then the visit to the Chiang Kai-shek memorial hall. For those who are not familiar with Chinese history, Chiang Kai-shek was the leader of the Chinese Nationalist Party (Kuo Min Tang - KMT) that was forced to retreat to Taiwan by the communists during the Chinese civil war following the end of World War II. In my opinion, as a character in history he needs to be viewed most critically, so I felt a little funny about the memorial.
However, the memorial hall pagoda, the National Theatre, the National Opera House and the archway to Freedom Square, that is encompassed by the precedent four, are definitely worth seeing.
Finally, I am done writing about my trip to Taipeh, what a relief. I have a new topic awaiting attendance, though: Last Sunday's hike on the most famous hiking trail in Taiwan with a spectacular view from the top of the mountains, the Caoling Ancient Trail.
So see you soon! ;)
Niklas
The village developed rapidly after the discovery of great gold deposits in 1893 and during the subsequent goldrush, mining being especially pushed by the Japanese during their rule on Taiwan from 1895 to 1945.
Following the stop of mining activities, the town experienced a decline just as drastic as its rise. Only in the 1990s was Jiufen rediscovered for its scenic view and many cultural sights, especially the many remnants of Japanese influence. Today, Jiufen is a major tourist attraction drawing thousands of visitors every week.
 |
| The main alley through Jiufen |
We spent almost two hours just walking down and up again this alley, stopping every now and then to try various snacks and delicacies.
Being a vegetarian makes me feel very good and I do not think that I am lacking any nutrients. Actually, after almost five months of sticking to a strictly vegetarian diet, I have even developed an aversion to the smell of meat and the idea of eating it.
Nevertheless, I sometimes feel it is a pity that I am missing the chance to try the many local dishes. If not for myself, then at least because I cannot tell you about the taste of chicken feet, pig's snout and blood cake.
When we left Jiufen, it was already dark and we were heading for Pingxi, a town more inland and famous for the releasing of heavenly lanterns at night. But things went quite different from what we had planned. The ride through the mountains turned out to be the most exciting part of the day and it is probably the most thrilling journey by car so far in my life.
I am already used to the very curvy and narrow streets in the Taiwanese mountains, either cutting through the uninhabited mountains or fitted onto steep hillsides. Yet, this ride was certainly far more terrific, as low clouds enshrouded the hilltops, forming a thick wall of fog around us and reducing our vision to less than 2 metres. So we made our way through the unknown going at walking speed around 180° bends, up and down sudden 10%-gradients, until we finally made it to Pingxi.
By that time, it had started raining cats and dogs. Thus, we decided to drop the flying of heavenly lanterns and returned to Taipeh, which is kind of sad, but I guess, after a ride like that it would have been hard to impress me anyways, haha.
 |
| View from Jiufen at night |
On monday, my friend took me to the language division of the National Taiwan University (NTU), a visit I had in fact been awaiting anxiously, since the information I wanted to get here about regular Chinese courses offered by the NTU would be decisive for my home university to permit or forbid my exchange to Taiwan next year. Luckily, all of the conditions set by my home university are fulfilled and I gained the permit to apply for a course with NTU. Taiwan I am coming back! :)
The last step on my trip to Taipeh was then the visit to the Chiang Kai-shek memorial hall. For those who are not familiar with Chinese history, Chiang Kai-shek was the leader of the Chinese Nationalist Party (Kuo Min Tang - KMT) that was forced to retreat to Taiwan by the communists during the Chinese civil war following the end of World War II. In my opinion, as a character in history he needs to be viewed most critically, so I felt a little funny about the memorial.
However, the memorial hall pagoda, the National Theatre, the National Opera House and the archway to Freedom Square, that is encompassed by the precedent four, are definitely worth seeing.
 |
| Archway to Freedom Square National Opera House to the left, Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall in the background, National Theatre to the right |
So see you soon! ;)
Niklas
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